The Hagia Sophia in Trabzon—not to be confused with the one in Istanbul—was originally a Byzantine Greek Orthodox church, built between 1238 and 1263. It was converted into a mosque in 1461, following the Ottoman conquest of Trabzon by Mehmed II. The oldest graffiti carved in the church’s apses bears the dates 1291 and 1293. Today, it is considered one of the best-preserved examples of Late-Byzantine architecture.
Looking at pictures online after my visit, I realized I hadn’t really noticed the ceiling paintings while I was there. Although we arrived before the Maghreb prayer time, it was getting close, and people were beginning to gather. I didn’t feel comfortable going all the way into the men’s section. Looking back, I can see some of the paintings in the corners of my photos—just glimpses of the ceiling.
Upon doing some research, I learned that there have been lawsuits regarding the Hagia Sophia’s conversion from museum status to a strictly functioning mosque. This quote from Harvard University explains the situation:
“Trabzon organizations have brought up lawsuits against Hagia Sophia’s conversion, especially in the name of its art historical value and the disregard for careful conservation practices. There is now a false ceiling covering many of the monument’s ornate frescoes, as well as carpeted floors, a mihrab, and curtains to partition the main prayer area. These additions were implemented without the approval of the Regional Conservation Council and were not executed with the suggested precautionary measures.”
This honestly surprised me, because I have visited many mosques in Turkey that were formerly churches, and in those cases, the original artwork was always preserved.
The mosque sits on top of a hill with a stunning view of the Black Sea. The grounds of the Hagia Sophia are also beautiful—lots of grass, trees, and flowers—and the mosque is surrounded by a park. The last few pictures of me standing on a sidewalk show the park’s walkway leading up to the mosque. I thought the lighting looked really pretty.
Chambray Shirt | Noho Skirt | Infinity Ring | Twist Ring | Stackable Ring | Toi et Moi Ring | Ringconn | Evil Eye Bracelet | Moon Earrings | Sully Watch | Ear Cuff |
